Stinging Insects (“Bees”, Wasps, Hornets)
Every year, queens that were born and fertilized at the end of the previous season begin a new colony.
The queen selects a location for its nest, begins building it, lays a first batch of eggs and feeds this
first group of larvae. These become workers and will assume the chore of expanding the nest —
done by chewing up wood which is mixed with a starch in their saliva. This mixture is then spread with
their mandibles and legs, drying into the paper-like substance that makes up the nest. The workers also
guard the nest and feed on nectar, tree sap and fruit pulp. They also capture insects and arthropods,
which are chewed up to be fed to the larvae. In addition, Bald-Faced Hornets have been observed
scavenging raw meat. This continues through summer and into fall. Near the end of summer, or early in
the fall, the queen begins to lay eggs which will become drones and new queens. After pupation, these
fertile males and females will mate, setting up next year's cycle of growth.
Yellow Jackets
Yellow Jacket is the common name in North America for predatory wasps of
the genera Vespula and Dolichovespula. Members of these families are known simply as "wasps" in
other areas.
Yellow jackets are sometimes mistakenly called "bees", as they are similar in size and appearance
and both sting, but they are actually wasps. Yellow jackets may be confused with other wasps, such
as hornets and paper wasps. A typical yellow jacket worker is about 12 mm (0.5 in) long, with alternating
bands on the abdomen; the queen is larger, about 19 mm (0.75 in) long (the different patterns on their
abdomens help separate various species). Workers are sometimes confused with honey bees, especially
when flying in and out of their nests. Yellow jackets, in contrast to honey bees, are not covered with tan-
brown dense hair on their bodies, they do not carry pollen, and do not have the flattened hairy hind legs
used to carry it.
These species have lance-like stingers with small barbs, and typically sting repeatedly, though
occasionally a stinger becomes lodged and pulls free of the wasp's body; the venom, like most bee and
wasp venoms, is primarily only dangerous to humans if allergic, unless a victim is stung many times. All
species have yellow or white on their faces. Yellow jackets build nests in trees, shrubs, or in protected
places such as inside man-made structures, or in soil cavities, mouse burrows, etc. They build
them from wood fiber they chew into a paper-like pulp.
Yellow jackets' closest relatives, the hornets, closely resemble them, but have larger heads, seen
especially in the large distance from the eyes to the back of the head.
They can be found on fallen fruit and around garbage cans sucking nectar, fruit, and other juices.
Paper Wasps
Paper wasps are 0.7 to 1.0 inch (1.8 to 2.5 cm) long wasps that gather fibers from dead wood and
plants which they mix with saliva and use to construct water-resistant nests made of gray or brown papery
material. Paper wasps are also sometimes called umbrella wasps, due to the distinctive design of their
nests or other regional variants such as Jack Spaniard.
Yellow Jackets and Hornets can be very aggressive, Paper Wasps will generally only attack if they
themselves or their nest are threatened. They are territorial however, this can of course lead to attacks on
people, with the threat of their sting being able to produce a potentially fatal anaphylactic reaction in some
individuals, nests in human inhabited areas my present an unacceptable risk.
Bald Faced Hornet
The bald-faced hornet also referred or known as white-faced hornet or white-tailed hornet. Live in the well-
known hanging paper nests. The females' habit of defending them with repeated stings. These stinging insects
are all too well known for being very territorial as well as aggressive.
Bald-faced hornets are protective of their nests and will sting repeatedly if the nest is physically disturbed.
They are more aggressive than both the wasps normally called yellow jackets, and it is not considered safe
to approach the nest for observation purposes. The bald-faced hornet will aggressively attack with little
provocation.
Bald faced Hornet and Nest
Remains of a bald-faced hornet nest (diameter is approximately 25 cm or 10 in)
Carpenter Bees
Carpenter bees are large, black and yellow bees frequently seen in spring hovering around the eaves
of a house or the underside of a deck or porch rail. They are most often mistaken for bumble bees, but
differ in that they have a black shiny tail section. The carpenter bee is so-called because of its habit
of excavating tunnels in wood with its strong jaws. The round half-inch diameter entrance holes are
usually found on the underside of a board. A tell-tale trace of coarse sawdust is often found on the
surface beneath the hole. Wooden decks, overhangs and other exposed wood on houses are prime
targets. Painted and treated woods are less preferred, but they are by no means immune to attack.
Unpainted or stained cedar, cypress and redwood shingles and siding are also attacked despite their
pest-resistant reputations. Carpenter bees, like their distant relatives, the carpenter ants, differ from
termites in that they do not consume the wood as food. They simply excavate tunnels for nesting sites.
Carpenter bees overwinter as adults, often inside old nest
tunnels. They emerge in April and May with the males
usually the first to appear. Males can be distinguished
from females by a whitish spot on the front of the face.
The males do not have stingers, but they are territorial
and will harass other bees and people who venture near
their protected areas. Females can sting, but rarely do so
unless confined in your hand or are highly agitated. They
feed on plant nectar, then begin constructing new tunnels
in a few weeks. The entrance holes start upward (or inward)
for
about one-half inch or more, then turn horizontally and
follow the wood grain. The galleries typically run six to
seven inches, but may exceed one foot. Occasionally,
several bees use the same entrance hole, but they have individual galleries branching off of the main
tunnel. If the same entrance hole is used for several years, tunnels may extend several feet in the wood.
Inside her gallery, the female bee gradually builds a large pollen ball which serves as food for her
offspring. She deposits an egg near this pollen ball and then seals off this section of tunnel with a partition
made of chewed wood. She constructs additional cells in this manner until the tunnel is completely filled,
usually with six to seven cells (depending on length of the tunnel). These adult bees die in a matter of
weeks. The eggs hatch in a few days and the offspring complete their development in about 5 to 7 weeks.
Adults begin to emerge in later summer. Although the bees remain active, feeding on pollen the general
area, they do not construct new tunnels, but may be seen cleaning out old tunnels which they will use as
overwintering sites when the weather turns cold.
Ants (Pavement, Carpenter, Pharaoh)
Pavement Ant
The pavement ant, is a common household pest. Its name comes from the fact that colonies usually
make their homes in pavement. It is distinguished by one spine on the back, two nodes on the petiole,
and grooves on the head and thorax . The species is native to Europe, but was introduced to North
America in the 18th century.
During early spring, colonies attempt to conquer new areas and often attack nearby enemy colonies.
These result in huge sidewalk battles, sometimes leaving thousands of ants dead. Because of their
aggressive nature, they often invade and colonize seemingly impenetrable areas. In summer time the
ants dig out the sand in between the pavements to vent the nests.
The pavement ant is dark brown to blackish, and 2.5–4 mm long. Like other ants there are the workers,
and a queen. New queen ants and drones, have wings, and are twice as large as the workers.
The drone's only job is to mate with the queen, and reproduction is at its highest in spring and
summer. These, like many other ants have nuptial flights where drones fly high up in the air and mate
with new queens. The queen finds a suitable nesting location and digs a founding chamber. As the eggs
hatch and the ants develop they will spend that time, about two to three months, tending to the queen of
their colony. They will continue helping in the colony until they are a month old.
Older workers hunt and defend the colony. They will eat almost anything, including insects, seeds,
honeydew, honey, bread, meats, nuts, ice cream and cheese.
Carpenter Ant
Workers are large (1/8-1/2”) but vary greatly in size, Queens about (1/2-5/8”) Colors vary from black,
red and brownish or black and red. Carpenter ants are 1 noded ants with an evenly rounded thorax.
Development time (egg to adult) takes at least 60 days. There is only one wingless queen per colony.
Colonies contain up to 3,000 workers when maturity is reached in about 3 to 6 years. Swarmers (winged)
are not produced until the colony is at least 2 years old.
Most Carpenter Ants establish their first nests in decaying wood and later expand into solid wood. Inside,
nests are located in wood (preferably softened by fungus rot), in insulation, and/ or in wall voids. Outside,
nests are typically located in rotting fence posts, stumps, firewood, dead portions of standing trees and
under stones or fallen logs. The workers forage up to 300 ft from the nest. Carpenter Ants enter buildings
around door and window frames, eaves, plumbing and utility lines and tree branches that come in contact
with the building. Some workers are active during the day, but most activity is from dusk until dawn.
The first step is to determine if the ants are merely foraging inside for food or if there is a nest inside. The
best indication of an INDOOR NEST is sawdust (FRASS), wood piles containing insect body parts and/or
a rustling sound in the walls. Carpenter Ants have trails they follow throughout a structure and often use
electrical wires and pipes.
Outside, be sure tree branches are not touching the building. Wood piles should be off the ground and
stored away from the building. Inspect old railway tiles around the building, as often they are the source
of infestation. Check around buildings for foraging trails, especially in the direction of trees and shrubs,
wood piles etc. Cut trees and shrubs back that come in contact with the building. Caulk around window
and door frames and any gaps around electrical and water lines will help to prevent the ant from coming
indoors.
Pharaoh Ant
The Pharaoh Ant is a tiny ant about 1/10-1/16” long. Worker ants are reddish-yellow, the queen is usually
darker red and males can be black.
These are an omnivorous ant, meaning they feed on animal or vegetable food, dead insects, small
animals, shed human skin on bedding, sucrose and IV solutions, sweets and fats.
They will typically nest indoors are inside electrical conduits, in linen closets, under flowerpots, within
walls of buildings, near water sources and in numerous other places. Pharaoh ants prefer areas with a
temperature around 80F and a relative humidity of about 80%. Foraging workers may travel over 100
feet for food.
Pharaoh ant control has typically been based on the spraying of insecticides around areas where ants
have been seen and/or dusting in wall voids and behind electrical switch plates with insecticide dusts.
Although such methods may kill off the 5-10% of the ants that leave the nest looking for food and water,
they do not usually result in colony elimination Furthermore, pharaoh ant colonies will often become
alarmed when treatment occurs and will split their colony into smaller units. This activity worsens the
situation.
Effective Pharaoh ant control utilizes an integrated pest management approach, with focus on ant baits
containing insecticides. In most instances multiple treatments are required over fairly short intervals. With
baiting, proper placement of the bait will result in effective ant control, however attention must be paid to
detail to ensure ant elimination – checking for ant activity along with correct bait placement is essential
along with the highest level of sanitation that can be maintained, ants must not be distracted from the bait
by other food sources – such as crumbs, spillages, dirty dishes, etc.
Cockroaches
German Cockroaches are ½ to 5/8 inches long when mature, and light brown to tan and have fully
developed wings. The shell like segment behind the head has two dark parallel bars on it. The adult
males are somewhat narrower than the females when viewed from below. The nymphs, 1/8 inches long
when they emerge from the egg capsule, are almost uniformly dark except for a light tan area in the back
of the second and third segments. As they develop, the light tan area becomes larger until, as mature
nymphs, they have two parallel black bars separated by a light tan area. The purse shaped egg capsule
of the German Cockroach is light brown in color, ¼ to 3/8 inch long and typically has 15 to 20 eggs per
side.
German cockroaches are the most common household insect within the United States and Canada. This
pest typically infests kitchens and bathrooms but will live anywhere inside heated structures for food,
water and harbourage. German cockroaches gain entry into structures in bags, cardboard boxes, drink
cartons, infested equipment such as used refrigerators, toasters, microwaves etc. Cockroaches feed on
all types of human food as well as on pet food, toothpaste, soap, glue, etc.
German cockroaches are active mostly at night, leaving their harborage to find food and water. They
remain hidden in their dark, secluded harborage areas under cupboards, behind cabinets, in wall voids,
and around motor housings in appliances where they spend a great deal of their time.
Because German cockroaches are typically brought into structures, potentially infested products should
be closely inspected. Many types of cardboard and plastic traps are available to help pinpoint sources of
cockroach infestation and to monitor areas which occupants have complained but infestations can’t be
visually detected. Sticky traps are not intended for control but, rather, to guide and evaluate control efforts
as part of the inspection process.
An effective cockroach management program depends on good sanitation to eliminate food, water and
harborage they need for survival. Clean-up to reduce cockroaches in the home and office environment
must focus mainly on the food residue in and around coffee machines, microwave ovens, stoves,
refrigerators, trash cans, furniture and areas where exposed food is stored. It is critical to reduce clutter,
as cockroaches like to hide in stacked boxes and locations near food. Vacuum cleaning can be used to
physically remove exposed cockroaches. Permanent reduction of cockroach populations can be achieved
by caulking to eliminate harborage. The most important cracks to eliminate include those in which sinks
and fixtures are mounted to the wall and/or floor, around all types of plumbing, baseboard molding and
corner guards where shelves and cabinets meet walls and door frames and cracks on or near food
preparation surfaces.
Cockroach access routes between apartments and from wall voids and around plumbing and electrical
fixtures should be sealed with caulk or grout. Basement floor drains should be protected with screens or
basket inserts which should be cleaned regularly.
Cockroaches transmit diseases as well as contaminate food and kitchen utensils with bacteria and
excrement. In addition to this they are also responsible for foul odours when found in higher numbers.
Cockroaches can also be responsible allergic reactions in humans and their faeces can be the cause of
some respiratory issues such as asthma in children.
German cockroach in various stages:
Brown Banded Cockroach:
Oriental Cockroach:
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